The short rains begin around early November, breathing new life into the landscape. A little after this, in late November and December, the vanguard of the wildebeest migration arrives on the short-grass plains south and east of Seronera, around Ndutu, including the north of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Dispersed across these open plains, wildebeest and zebra are everywhere, eagerly feeding on the fresh, highly nutritious grasses.

The herds stay put on the southern and eastern plains through January, February, and March. February marks one of the most dramatic spectacles of the year: a synchronized mass calving window where most wildebeest calves are born within a short, intense period. As March draws to a close, the grass begins to deplete, and the herds gradually spread westward across these plains.

Driven by the shifting weather and changing forage, April marks the official start of the great migration north. By May, virtually all of the Serengeti’s wildebeest seem to be on the move. The area around Moru Kopjes and west of Seronera becomes hectic with a series of moving columns containing massive numbers of wildebeest, zebras, and Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles all pushing upward to seek fresh grazing and water.

The northward march is often temporarily halted or slowed in June by the Grumeti River. The herds congregate in the Western Corridor, building up to a high density before attempting to cross. While the river here is a series of channels and pools rather than a continuous raging torrent, it still represents an annual feast for the area’s large crocodiles, though not quite as massive as the crossings further north.

During July and August, the migration continues pushing northwards, often spreading out across a broad front. Some herds pass through the Grumeti Reserve and Ikorongo, while others march straight up through the heart of the Serengeti National Park, navigating the rugged terrain as they head toward the border.

September brings the herds to their most serious and dramatic obstacle: the Mara River, which gushes down from Kenya’s adjacent Maasai Mara Game Reserve. Watching the frantic herds cross the river is unforgettable, characterized by great panic, confusion, and intense predator activity. It is common for herds to cross north on one day, only to surge back south a few days later based on shifting whims and weather.

By October, the herds unite with more accord, all heading decisively south through western Loliondo and the Serengeti National Park’s Lobo area. They march back down toward the southern plains, racing to meet the green shoots that will follow November’s rains—and the entire magnificent cycle begins all over again.

Then the whole Serengeti Wildebeest migration starts again …